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Premature Ejaculation, by far the best line on the mountain.
Some may say that Premature Ejaculation is hard for its grade, run out and poor pro. Well when Michel D. and I attempted the route, we found the climbing to be nice and straightforward with a few cruxy moves that were well protected. Near the crux pitch of the climb is where we found the route finding the trickiest. We spent a couple of hours working the one pitch trying to figure out where they went. Lots of bail stuff everywhere, someone needs to go up there and fix up a new Dir. Var to the crux corner of the route.
Buggaboo Rock
Finishing Touch is the best three pitches of climbing on the entire route.
Finishing Touch has another wonderful pitches of weird rock that is very hard to route find through, and lots of time is spent trying to figure out where to go. Once you find the anchor then the rest of the climb becomes a powerful layback that is sometimes wet near the to of the big corner. Well-recommended climb for the bold. A big warning on the lower pitches up Quick Release, there is a big wedged flake in the corner that seems very dangerous and a plan to remove it would be wise for someone’s future safety.
Thailand Rock Climbing Nov - Dec 1997
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