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IBEX, UTAH Desert Rock New Routes and Topos
by Kelly MacLeod (updated Feb 9/04)
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Utah holds some of the wildest desert rock climbing in the world. From the Arches to St George, The West dessert hold some of the wildest remote rock climbing one can experience on a trip to UTAH.

 

First of all you have to buy a copy of the IBEX climbing guide book by James Garrett.  A Salt lake Climber who has traveled the world, climbed on every type of rock, brings you the joy of Ibex rock.

 

Lost out in the west dessert lies Granite, limestone, Quartzite, and Basalt all in the same Valley Range.  Ibex has been known as a great place to go and boulder, but what really holds the mysterious power in the climbing at this desolate area is what grabs me the most.  I spent a few trips going to this place, always as a stop over on Vegas bound.

 

The road directions are in the guidebook, wicked routes await the keener who likes to put up new routes.  I was won of those crazy individuals that will keep returning hoping that my lines are still there to send.

 

CLICK THE PICTURE TO SEE QUARTERMOON TOWER


The camping is at the base in the boulders, see the vehicles bottom Left.

 

Dont let the 5 min approach to some of the routes scare you away.  There is a new line waiting behind every corner for those who have an eye for a line.  Please if you put in a new route try to mark out a good trail or try and build one with the rocks as part of the route as a whole.  In the end prevention is key.  Keep erosion down in the desert. 

 

This Fragile environment has plants and animals that need each other.   DO NOT BURN THE DESERT BRUSH; the plants need the decomposing to nourish themselves.  Bring in your own firewood.  PACK OUT YOUR TRASH AND BOTTLES.  James and I have on numerous location picked up cans bags broken bottles, you name it its out there in the shrubs and rocks.  It looks disgusting for such a beautiful spot in the middle of nowhere.  BURN YOUR SHIT PAPER so its not in the trees.

For the time I spent in Ibex, here was my contribution to a wonderful place, the throne for the morning coffee break..

 

Dont let this nice looking place kid you, one morning without even knowing, a nice Rattle snake was sleeping in behind my shitter, I pulled my dusting stick and found the sucker wrapped around the stick.  Check to hole before dumping.

Kelly MacLeod on the First Ascent of
Birth Canal 5.10a

 

My very first trip to Ibex with a good friend of mine, Stewart Midwinter.  We were doing some of the climbs in the guide book and noticed this route. 

 

A wild over hung wall with a gapping crack corner, leading to a large sandy over hang to the top of a small rock rib. 

 

We climbed a route called Snakeskin 2 Pitch 5.10a.  Straight across the open scree slope you will find the crack to roof. 

 

At the pod just above my head is where you climb into the canal and out to the top.  A nice 5.5 crack in the shaft leads to the top.

 

The route actually climbs into the mountain and climbs an elevator shaft to the top and a two bolt anchor.

 

Click the Picture to see the elevator shaft to the top.  Stewart Midwinter shows you how its done.

 

Josee pulling off Pitch two of
Bernerinnen Anstatt Klapperschlangen
Three pitch climb.

 

Right side of Anti Venom Wall is a cool three pitch climb.

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These are a few of my favorite photographs from my different travels. Feel free to browse them as you like. If you want one click your right mouse button and choose "Save As" from the menu.
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These are a few of my favorite photographs from my different travels. Feel free to browse them as you like. If you want one click your right mouse button and choose "Save As" from the menu.
Image title would go here.
These are a few of my favorite photographs from my different travels. Feel free to browse them as you like. If you want one click your right mouse button and choose "Save As" from the menu.
Image title would go here.
These are a few of my favorite photographs from my different travels. Feel free to browse them as you like. If you want one click your right mouse button and choose "Save As" from the menu.
Image title would go here.
These are a few of my favorite photographs from my different travels. Feel free to browse them as you like. If you want one click your right mouse button and choose "Save As" from the menu.
Image title would go here.
These are a few of my favorite photographs from my different travels. Feel free to browse them as you like. If you want one click your right mouse button and choose "Save As" from the menu.
Image title would go here.
These are a few of my favorite photographs from my different travels. Feel free to browse them as you like. If you want one click your right mouse button and choose "Save As" from the menu.
Image title would go here.
These are a few of my favorite photographs from my different travels. Feel free to browse them as you like. If you want one click your right mouse button and choose "Save As" from the menu.
Image title would go here.
These are a few of my favorite photographs from my different travels. Feel free to browse them as you like. If you want one click your right mouse button and choose "Save As" from the menu.
Image title would go here.
These are a few of my favorite photographs from my different travels. Feel free to browse them as you like. If you want one click your right mouse button and choose "Save As" from the menu.