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The complete guide book on the Ghost Rock climbing and information on this remote and beautiful area, by Joe Josephson, Andy Genereux and Chris Perry can be purchased from any sport shop in the mountains as well as MEC Calgary. RM Books Calgary is probably the best place for information.
The Ghost is for someone with the adventure feeling. Even if you are just going out to clip bolts sport climbing on the Silver Tongue Devil Crag, or at the Wild West Wall Area, the approach is always the same, 13.5 km to the top of the big hill, on a potted gravel road. A 4x4 truck would do the trick nicely on the boulder washed out big hill road down to the river bottom. From here you are looking at still a huge approach by foot if you don't have the truck. Silver Tongue Crag in the North is 40min by bike on the road. Bonanza is feasible by walk in 1.5 hrs. or 15 min bike half hour uphill hike.
Camping for the Car people with the bike in approach on their mind is at the top of the Bill hill, smaller roads lead off into the trees to campsites beside the road. Pick your favourite site, we found a really nice one just to the far right corner of the parking lot, over looking the whole Ghost Valley Area, is a small road in the grass to a point with a nice place to camp. Not much room to move around with the Car.
GREY GHOST WALL
Zephyr and Banshee Link up. Try and bag these both in a day. Great adventure on Banshee. Heads up for this one.
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Click the Picture to get a Topo of the Two routes together for a link up Day.
The guide book has a Topo for Zephyr which I too climbing, climbed Banshee that at the time had no Topo, and therefore drew a Topo which comes quite close to Zephyr a couple of times. I want to go back and try Grey Ghost for a three way Topo. Eventually may be a Topo of the entire Grey Ghost wall. For full description of the climb, go to Ghost Rock Book for Play by Play pitches.
SPECTRE CRAG
This is a wonderful looking wall with potential for other lines. The rock is of pretty good quality limestone and sports a very nice route called Spectres Knife. Take a pink try cam for one of the belays, very critical. The decent off the trees is not down at the bottom of the slope but quite high, If you scramble down to the bottom of the Forrest on that wall, you find yourself in space. Big Pendulum for a tree, not so good. A drill and a few bolts would make this clime a beautiful route and safe and a Rap line down with nice access so all climbs on the wall could use it.
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The small red writing is a warning telling you don't go the way the guide book shows you.
Click the picture to see a Topo of Spectres Knife. Play by play can be found in the guide book.
Climbing this route you may want to take a selection of pins and hammer. Extra long webbing for some anchors, two ropes for rapping. This four pitch adventure will probably take you the day to do it so be prepared for the worst.
WULLY WALL
Head north at the bottom of the big hill and follow the road until your below Wully Wall. Follow approach trail in the gully, break out left at the base for a ways to the base of the climb. Josee and I climbed a variation to the route with a couple knife blades and pins. The Aid part of the climb, climbs really nice rock on some unprotected bits, but eventually you get some good gear. The route is quite nice and clean, the upper pitch above the chimney could use better pro. Run out grit.
Take selection of pins and Hammer
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The Inset picture is of the Route Chicken Heart. This is a good fun adventure route that is worth doing if you are their doing Consolation and then this as a link up.
The bolted mixed line has rumours that it is complete, another one of Andy G. routes. My Topo however for this climb is incorrect and inaccurate. Please do not use the Chicken Heart Topo for the Project Route.
GREY GHOST WALL
I did some work putting two popular routes on the Grey Ghost wakll. I did not originally draw the Topos for these two but I did draw them to gether. You may like it that way.
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